Yesterday, at sunset, we bathed in the holy waters surrounding the Golden Temple, and shorty after we got out, a large sand storm engulfed Amaritsar and the Holy Temple. The golden building shined brightly in the midst of the dark whirlwind of sand and looked incredible. We went bus-hopping that night, looking for a way to Delhi, and ended up on our first AC bus of the trip. AC sucks. Way too cold - I'll take the budget sleeper bus over AC anyday, thank you very much. Then, at 5 AM, the bus driver somehow managed to run the bus off the road into a ditch, so we all had to get out, luggage and all, and flag down a public transport bus, which we somehow managed to squeeze into. Only in India (actually, once in Panama something similar happened, where one of the tires on this big bus we were riding almost 10 hours through the countryside from a remote village where I had been volunteering for a month, popped. We had to inch slowly on the bare rim to the closest service station, adding a few more hours to the trip).
We're in Delhi now, waiting to head to the airport for our flights back home and it's raining very very hard. We really lucked out that it didnt rain much at all during our trip - once in the desert, and once in Darjeeling, but thats it. We're lucky with a lot of things. THis trip has been amazing. I'm sad to leave here, but very happy that I will be seeing my family and friends back home for a few days at least.
Tuesday, June 30, 2009
Monday, June 29, 2009
Cookies and Lassis
I have not posted anything in a few days because we have been riding camels in the middle of the desert... no roads, no running water, no electricity, lots and lots of sand, and lots of brutal sun. We had the best time ever! Sleeping on dunes under amazing night skies, eating delicious desert food, singing and yelling while riding into the barren desert, joking with Saleem and Abdul (our camel drivers), passing through remote desert villages of shepherds and small farmers, and endless good memories. I dont really feel like writing about it right now, as i am drenched in sweat at an internet cafe in Amaritsar (City that holds Sikh rteligion's holiest shrine, The Golden Temple, and right near the only open Pakistan-India border crossing), but I just wanted to let you know...
We are coming home soon, which is sad. The month flew by, and we are already thinking of our next adventures.
Ill fill you in on more of the details when I get the chance.
We are coming home soon, which is sad. The month flew by, and we are already thinking of our next adventures.
Ill fill you in on more of the details when I get the chance.
Tuesday, June 23, 2009
The Desert is a Wonderous Place
Yesterday we climbed a small mountain on the outskirts of a tiny desert-town called Pushkar and watched the sun turn the sandy clouds around us from a orange-red glow to bright golden whisps that streaked the sky to a fading reddish purple before dissapearing behind some nearby hills and getting terribly dark. I find the desert mysteriously appealing. Gypsie women and their piercing eyes make me uneasy. The lake here is dried up, but bright colors line the streets and barefoot children play cricket alongside oblivious cows. Smells take turns infiltrating your senses as you walk - spices, incense, fried foods, and feces. Old wrinkly dark faced men drink chai together and chat, wrapped in airy white cloths that resemble diapers and huge colorful, intricately wrapped head cloths (not turbans) that resemble oversized helmets. We made friends with a jolly, very fat, shirtless man who wears an orange cloth around his waist, likes to dance and hasn't slopen a word in several months. He wears large Hindu prayer beads and shoos away gypsies that love to come and bother us. He seems to understand what we say to him, and somehow he responds with his eyes and hand motions - he has a loud friendly laugh and we can never help but join in. We eat at Saleem and Niza's "Honeydew Cafe", and after, we linger, drinking chai, people watching, and talking with our kind chef and host, Niza (he talks a lot, and has an honest smile) and occasional children who stop by.
I never told you about Jaipur. THere is a lot to see in that old, pink city, and the people are friendly and calm. THere is also a lot to buy, but we rarely ever buy anything anywhere we go (we're not big shoppers). Our favorite part was the enormous Amber Fort, where we got lost inside the maze of narrow dark hallways and then suddenly popped out in the middle of a hip, modern cafe, where we drank iced coffess and iced teas and felt uneasy afterwards (it's always the hip, nice places that upset your stomach the most. no joke). We met and talked with an old priest who showed us his temple and let us rest on his roof, overlooking the city. We had dinner with an Irish couple in our simple Guest House, Devi Niwas, and gave travelling advice to another german couple who were just starting their own Indian adventure. French people are always pretty cold, but polite, towards us.
Next we go deeper into the desert, to Jaisalmer. THere we look forward to riding camels and sleeping under the stars. The end of our adventure is creeping up on us too quickly, like the sun who slowly progresses through the sky over the course of the day and then quickly falls away behind faraway hills before you know it. Catch you later,
NPW
I never told you about Jaipur. THere is a lot to see in that old, pink city, and the people are friendly and calm. THere is also a lot to buy, but we rarely ever buy anything anywhere we go (we're not big shoppers). Our favorite part was the enormous Amber Fort, where we got lost inside the maze of narrow dark hallways and then suddenly popped out in the middle of a hip, modern cafe, where we drank iced coffess and iced teas and felt uneasy afterwards (it's always the hip, nice places that upset your stomach the most. no joke). We met and talked with an old priest who showed us his temple and let us rest on his roof, overlooking the city. We had dinner with an Irish couple in our simple Guest House, Devi Niwas, and gave travelling advice to another german couple who were just starting their own Indian adventure. French people are always pretty cold, but polite, towards us.
Next we go deeper into the desert, to Jaisalmer. THere we look forward to riding camels and sleeping under the stars. The end of our adventure is creeping up on us too quickly, like the sun who slowly progresses through the sky over the course of the day and then quickly falls away behind faraway hills before you know it. Catch you later,
NPW
Friday, June 19, 2009
Varanasi --> Agra --> Jaipur
It's so freakin hot here in the city of Jaipur, but we are having so much fun! I didn't get a chance to update you sooner, or fill you in on more Varanasi details, because we have been busy - going from one place to another, meeting all sorts of people, seeing wonderful things, and just enjoying life out here.
I'll keep it short, even though there's just so much to say. Varanasi was our favorite city so far. The hotel we stayed at, The Ganga Yogi Lodge, which we were taken to against our will by our friendly Auto-Rickshaw driver, Pappu, who claims he honestly misunderstood when we asked to be taken to The Ganga Fuji Lodge, actually ended up being an awesome place. We had a simple, clean, AC double room for 400 rupees a night (less than 9 bucks), but the best part was the staff. Though they appeared like people we would never normally feel safe around much less talk to, they were such a fun and quirky group. From watching the India vs. England Cricket match with the cook one night, as he explained the rules to us, jumping up and cheering madly every time India got a point, to spending the afternoon with one and taking him out to dinner at a very nice, extremely cheap local restaurant, to just lounging around and chatting with the manager at the rooftop, we had the best time. We also made another tourist friend, Kengo, a japanese dude who barely spoke a word of english, yet was very happy to join us walking around the city and eat meals with us, rarely being able to understand each other, but always very cheerful. I wish him safe and fun travels on the rest of his solo Indian adventures.
As for Varanasi itself, I'll quickly just tell you my impressions of some of the temples we visited, as it is a city based almost entirely around religion. The monkey temple was almost scary, almost cult-ish. The cool part was all the monkeys doing their thing everywhere, pulling on peoples shirts everytime they wanted food. The temple itself was dark and dirty, with fat priests of some kind lying providing eager worshipers with some sort of holy water into their cupped hands which they would drink. There was also this orange paste that was everywhere, some people had it all over themselves, their faces, their hands, and it covered many of the walls. Everyone was chanting and walking around clockwise, some praying quietly and some loudly, but all giving us dirty looks as though they didn't like the fact that us foreigners were there, disturbing their rituals. Another temple we visited that I forget the name of was very different, very clean, and full of light, and covered in white marble, with young, fit looking priests sitting by strange idols that people were worshiping. Only thing is, the strange idols looked more like cartoon figurines, with bright orange skin, round eyes, and exagerated, big thick mustaches. Very interesting, very different than anything I am used to.
Now Agra, which was amazing. The Taj Mahal is incredible and regardless of how you've seen it in photographs or videos, the real thing blows you away. We woke up early and saw it at sunrise, when the bright white marble had a beautiful glow to it that grew in intensity as the sun rose higher and higher. WHat an amazing building, created by one Mughal emperor as a symbol of his love for his favorite wife (his two other wives have puny little domed enclosures for them at corners of the property), who is buried with him in the middle of it. I wish I could build a building like that for the girl I love... haha
We also watched it at sunset from a very nearby rooftop with a new friend we made, Kim. She just came back from a month long, NOLS backpacking trip in the himalayas, which sounded amazing. She's from the same area in New Jersey as Mike, and was awesome. Hope to see her again in the city when we're back.
Now we're in Jaipur, "the pink city". I'll tell you about it later. Cya,
NPW
I'll keep it short, even though there's just so much to say. Varanasi was our favorite city so far. The hotel we stayed at, The Ganga Yogi Lodge, which we were taken to against our will by our friendly Auto-Rickshaw driver, Pappu, who claims he honestly misunderstood when we asked to be taken to The Ganga Fuji Lodge, actually ended up being an awesome place. We had a simple, clean, AC double room for 400 rupees a night (less than 9 bucks), but the best part was the staff. Though they appeared like people we would never normally feel safe around much less talk to, they were such a fun and quirky group. From watching the India vs. England Cricket match with the cook one night, as he explained the rules to us, jumping up and cheering madly every time India got a point, to spending the afternoon with one and taking him out to dinner at a very nice, extremely cheap local restaurant, to just lounging around and chatting with the manager at the rooftop, we had the best time. We also made another tourist friend, Kengo, a japanese dude who barely spoke a word of english, yet was very happy to join us walking around the city and eat meals with us, rarely being able to understand each other, but always very cheerful. I wish him safe and fun travels on the rest of his solo Indian adventures.
As for Varanasi itself, I'll quickly just tell you my impressions of some of the temples we visited, as it is a city based almost entirely around religion. The monkey temple was almost scary, almost cult-ish. The cool part was all the monkeys doing their thing everywhere, pulling on peoples shirts everytime they wanted food. The temple itself was dark and dirty, with fat priests of some kind lying providing eager worshipers with some sort of holy water into their cupped hands which they would drink. There was also this orange paste that was everywhere, some people had it all over themselves, their faces, their hands, and it covered many of the walls. Everyone was chanting and walking around clockwise, some praying quietly and some loudly, but all giving us dirty looks as though they didn't like the fact that us foreigners were there, disturbing their rituals. Another temple we visited that I forget the name of was very different, very clean, and full of light, and covered in white marble, with young, fit looking priests sitting by strange idols that people were worshiping. Only thing is, the strange idols looked more like cartoon figurines, with bright orange skin, round eyes, and exagerated, big thick mustaches. Very interesting, very different than anything I am used to.
Now Agra, which was amazing. The Taj Mahal is incredible and regardless of how you've seen it in photographs or videos, the real thing blows you away. We woke up early and saw it at sunrise, when the bright white marble had a beautiful glow to it that grew in intensity as the sun rose higher and higher. WHat an amazing building, created by one Mughal emperor as a symbol of his love for his favorite wife (his two other wives have puny little domed enclosures for them at corners of the property), who is buried with him in the middle of it. I wish I could build a building like that for the girl I love... haha
We also watched it at sunset from a very nearby rooftop with a new friend we made, Kim. She just came back from a month long, NOLS backpacking trip in the himalayas, which sounded amazing. She's from the same area in New Jersey as Mike, and was awesome. Hope to see her again in the city when we're back.
Now we're in Jaipur, "the pink city". I'll tell you about it later. Cya,
NPW
Tuesday, June 16, 2009
The Heart of India?
Varanasi is intense! This city is old, really, really old -- one of the oldest living cities in the world actually, but that in no way means it appears tired. On the contrary it is so full of color and life and excitement, all bursting from the banks of the holy Ganges River (The Ganga as they call it here), a mysterious river that is almost worshipped by the Hindu people. The ganga supports life here -- its where people come to bathe, wash their clothes, fish, have fun, and pray daily. Reminds me of summer camp. It's where people come to die as well. I have never before seen a cremation in progress, and here they burn bodies 24 hours a day, 7 days a week, 365 days a year here, and they have been for over 2,500 years! The fire used to start the cremation fires has apparently been going since the very beginning, and is watched 24/7 by somone. The ashes and any leftover pieces of bone after about 3 hours are thrown in the river by family members, none of whom cry as they watch and pray in silence for the entire duration of the incineration. Female family members are strictly banned from the "burning ghats" because they cry and disturb the process. To watch this powerful scene sends chills up the spine and burns an image in your memory that will be impossible to forget.
But think about the implications. There are the ashes of millions of Hindu people in the ganga, and regarding lepers, pregnant women, children under 10 years, small-pox, cobra-bite victims, and accidental death victims - they are not burned. A stone is simply tied to their bodies, and they are thrown in the ganga. AND PEOPLE BATHE IN IT DAILY! AND EAT THE FISH! Not to mention that several sewage systems dump waste directly into the water, and hundreds of peopl do their laundry in the water, and many of the banks are strewn with debris, and people and animals go to the bathroom in the water, and the list goes on! I LITERALLY SAW OUR BOATMAN DRINK FROM THE WATER!!!
They say we just don't understand. It's true, we don't. And when we ask why people would throw their trash in something they hold so special to them, they just kind of stare back confused and have no response. I don't think they really understand either, but, for those who have lived their entire lives on the ganga, bathing in it every day (never having ever taken a real shower or bath elsewhere), drinking from it, and surviving from it -- they are alive (for the most part), and very happy, and feel fortunate to live their lives near the ganges. It's so crazy, unlike anything we have ever seen, and personally, we're very happy with our filtered, clear, clean, un-holy, normal water.
I'll tell you more about Varanasi later, right now its time for a delicious lunch, a walk along the colorful ghats, some visits to holy temples like "The Monkey Temple", and a relaxing afternoon Chai.
But think about the implications. There are the ashes of millions of Hindu people in the ganga, and regarding lepers, pregnant women, children under 10 years, small-pox, cobra-bite victims, and accidental death victims - they are not burned. A stone is simply tied to their bodies, and they are thrown in the ganga. AND PEOPLE BATHE IN IT DAILY! AND EAT THE FISH! Not to mention that several sewage systems dump waste directly into the water, and hundreds of peopl do their laundry in the water, and many of the banks are strewn with debris, and people and animals go to the bathroom in the water, and the list goes on! I LITERALLY SAW OUR BOATMAN DRINK FROM THE WATER!!!
They say we just don't understand. It's true, we don't. And when we ask why people would throw their trash in something they hold so special to them, they just kind of stare back confused and have no response. I don't think they really understand either, but, for those who have lived their entire lives on the ganga, bathing in it every day (never having ever taken a real shower or bath elsewhere), drinking from it, and surviving from it -- they are alive (for the most part), and very happy, and feel fortunate to live their lives near the ganges. It's so crazy, unlike anything we have ever seen, and personally, we're very happy with our filtered, clear, clean, un-holy, normal water.
I'll tell you more about Varanasi later, right now its time for a delicious lunch, a walk along the colorful ghats, some visits to holy temples like "The Monkey Temple", and a relaxing afternoon Chai.
Saturday, June 13, 2009
back to hot, harsh reality
From the sweaty, grimy city of Kolkata (Calcutta), where we're stopping shortly on our way to Varanasi, our 4 tranquil days in Darjeeling feel like a wonderful dream. We visited holy Buddhist shrines, explored the incredible Tibetan Refugee Center, took walks among lush tea plantations, and sipped high tea like English royalty. Even more enjoyable were all the great people we met, from other travellers, to the incredibly friendly, courteous, and hospitable locals. Definitely hope to return to Darjeeling soon, and highly recommend this beautiful town.
On another note, BUS' ARE SO MUCH NICER THAN TRAINS!!! That is, if you're going budget and the distance isnt toooo far. We took a 14 hour overnight bus from Siliguri to Kolkata and it was infinitely more comfortable than taking a train. Unfortunately, we have a long 12 hour overnight train to Varanasi coming up soon, so we'll see how that goes.
Before that, we're going to soak in as much of Kolkata as possible. It's a nice city, despite the over-abundance of poverty visible all over the streets, with plenty of colonial influence, and yellow cabs that remind me of home. Most of the streets have several names and maps are pretty much useless (typical of India we are quickly learning). The US consulate is, ironically, on Ho Chi Min road, which was done on purpose by the independent Indian governement as a joke after changing it from Harrington road. The game plan for now is to check out the Victoria Memorial, which is supposed to resemble a cross between the Taj Mahal and the US state capital, this afternoon. First we are going to endulge ourselves by sneaking into a nice hotel, The Park, to use the swimming pool and avoid the unmerciful midday heat. Catch ya later,
NPW
On another note, BUS' ARE SO MUCH NICER THAN TRAINS!!! That is, if you're going budget and the distance isnt toooo far. We took a 14 hour overnight bus from Siliguri to Kolkata and it was infinitely more comfortable than taking a train. Unfortunately, we have a long 12 hour overnight train to Varanasi coming up soon, so we'll see how that goes.
Before that, we're going to soak in as much of Kolkata as possible. It's a nice city, despite the over-abundance of poverty visible all over the streets, with plenty of colonial influence, and yellow cabs that remind me of home. Most of the streets have several names and maps are pretty much useless (typical of India we are quickly learning). The US consulate is, ironically, on Ho Chi Min road, which was done on purpose by the independent Indian governement as a joke after changing it from Harrington road. The game plan for now is to check out the Victoria Memorial, which is supposed to resemble a cross between the Taj Mahal and the US state capital, this afternoon. First we are going to endulge ourselves by sneaking into a nice hotel, The Park, to use the swimming pool and avoid the unmerciful midday heat. Catch ya later,
NPW
Wednesday, June 10, 2009
Peace and Happiness high above the clouds
Ok, well it took us about 36 hours of some of the most uncomfortable and miserable traveling through scorchingly hot and remote Indian countryside in a train without air conditioning, sharing a small cabin made for 8 people that closely resembled a prison cell and packed with 20 people to get here, but wow, Darkeeling is AMAZING! In addition to the train we also had to take a 2+ hour jeep ride up the mountain to reach this small hill station, but definiltey not your average jeep ride -- imagaine this: an average 7 person jeep, jam packed with fifteen people and 5 more on the roof (2 people in the driver's seat!!) rocketing up a steep and trecherous mountain path barely wide enough for 2 cars, blasting Indian pop music, and holding on for dear life. A journey definitely not for the faint of heart or stomach.
But we survived, and are all the stronger from it. After finding a cozy place to stay in Darjeeling, Andy's Guest House, about $9 per night with spectacular views and such a nice and caring couple who own the place to tend to us, we are enjoying life here, sipping delicious Darjeeling tea and taking tranquil walks among the luscious green himalayan slopes. We are very happy here, high above the clouds, where the sun rises up behind the himalayas and the cool mountain air feels healthy and brings with it the smells of the surrounding tea plantations. The people are kind, calm, and peaceful, such a contrast to the hectic, grimy Delhi-life, where one must be constantly on the lookout for hustlers and scammers and pick-pockets. This afternoon we are planning on visiting the sacred Buddhist monasteries that can be found throughout the mountain top, and hopefully we will even get to see the original Tibetan Book of the Dead. Unfortunately, volunterring at the foundation here requires 2 weeks time, minimum, so we have to pass up on that opportunity. Nevertheless, we are happy here, and plan on staying for some time, before heading back west. Catch ya later,
NPW
But we survived, and are all the stronger from it. After finding a cozy place to stay in Darjeeling, Andy's Guest House, about $9 per night with spectacular views and such a nice and caring couple who own the place to tend to us, we are enjoying life here, sipping delicious Darjeeling tea and taking tranquil walks among the luscious green himalayan slopes. We are very happy here, high above the clouds, where the sun rises up behind the himalayas and the cool mountain air feels healthy and brings with it the smells of the surrounding tea plantations. The people are kind, calm, and peaceful, such a contrast to the hectic, grimy Delhi-life, where one must be constantly on the lookout for hustlers and scammers and pick-pockets. This afternoon we are planning on visiting the sacred Buddhist monasteries that can be found throughout the mountain top, and hopefully we will even get to see the original Tibetan Book of the Dead. Unfortunately, volunterring at the foundation here requires 2 weeks time, minimum, so we have to pass up on that opportunity. Nevertheless, we are happy here, and plan on staying for some time, before heading back west. Catch ya later,
NPW
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